This page last modified 2002 November
07
FAQ for uk.sci.astronomy
Contents
A.
Introduction
B.
Astronomical Societies
C. Astronomical
Publications
D.
Astronomical Software
E. Astronomical Equipment
Choosing and Purchasing
F. Astronomical Equipment
Maintenance
G.
Astronomical Equipment Mounts
H. Astronomical Equipment
Eyepieces
I.
Astronomical Equipment Accessories
J. Astronomical Equipment
Telescope Making
K. Astrophotography
Conventional Film
L. Astrophotography
Digital Cameras (DigiCams)
M. Astrophotography CCD
Cameras
N.
Astrophotography Other Electronic Cameras
O. Visual
Observation
P.
Light Pollution
Q. Miscellaneous
R. Useful Internet
Resources
Y.
Contributors
Z.
Requests for Other Sections
A. Introduction
- Where is this FAQ located?
The primary location is http://www.astronomycentre.org.uk/UKSA/faq.htm
.
It is mirrored at http:///www.astunit.com/faq/uksciastrofaq.htm
- What is uk.sci.astronomy?
"uk.sci.astronomy is a forum for
amateur and professional astronomers to discuss astronomy within the UK."
(from the newsgroup charter.)
- What is the charter of uk.sci.astronomy?
The charter is a
definitive description of what is and is not permitted on the newsgroup. It is
archived at http://www.usenet.org.uk/uk.sci.astronomy.html.
The full text of the charter is:
uk.sci.astronomy -- Astronomy in the UK
CHARTER
uk.sci.astronomy is a forum for amateur and professional
astronomers to discuss astronomy within the UK. Examples of
suitable topics for uk.sci.astronomy include:
Observing from the UK: Using the naked eye, binoculars,
telescopes, The Moon, Planets, Stars, The Sun, Comets, Meteor
Showers, Deep Sky Objects, Constellations, Aurorae, et. al.
Equipment: Choosing Telescopes/Binoculars. Choosing Accessories
(Finders, Drives, Eyepieces, Filters, Observatories) Building
Telescopes, Backyard Observatories, etc.
Astrophotography: Traditional, CCD, Other detectors, Image
Processing
Astronomy Software: Planetarium Programs, Deep Sky Programs,
Observatory Programs, Educational Programs
Relevant Social Events in the UK: Educational seminars, observing
meetings etc.
Astronomical events visible from the UK: Lunar and Solar Eclipses,
Meteor activity, supernovae etc.
Tips & Techniques for Amateur Astronomers
Literature covering the topics listed above.
ADVERTISING
Is forbidden except for short (less than 10 lines) private adverts
for astronomy related items (telescopes, eyepieces, software,
books etc.) and announcements of events relevant to astronomy
in the UK. Blatant off-topic and commercial advertising is
not permitted.
BINARIES
All posts must be made in plain text; HTML and other types of
formatted text are forbidden. Posting URLs of relevant Internet
sites, where appropriate, is encouraged.
With the explicit exception of PGP signatures, all encoded
binaries are forbidden. Forbidden binaries include,
but are not limited to: pictures, sounds, word processor
documents, spreadsheets, executable programs and "business
cards". You are invited to read a guide on the World Wide Web
at http://www.usenet.org.uk/ukpost.html for further information
on how to configure your newsreader to post to uk.* newsgroups.
Anyone posting advertisements, binaries or other material contrary
to this charter may be reported to their ISP or postmaster.
- Can the charter be changed?
Yes, but it involves a non-trivial
process. For information on the procedure for changing charters, please see http://www.usenet.org.uk/.
- What conventions are there for posting to uk.sci.astronomy?
They
are the same as those for any uk.* hierarchy newsgroup, and can be found at http://www.usenet.org.uk/ukpost.html,
where you will also find advice on how to configure your newsreader
appropriately. In brief, these conventions/guidelines are:
- Try to stay on-topic
- Trim quoted material subscribers will have received the post which you
are following-up, so there is no need to quote it in full
- Do not top-post (i.e. do post your follow-up comments under the piece of
quoted material to which they reply). This enables readers to follow a train
of thought after multiple follow-ups.
- Use '>' to mark quoted lines.
- Use a signature-separator of "-- " (two dashes followed by a blank space
on a separate line). This enables newsreader software to exclude signature
lines from follow-ups.
- Restrict your signature to 4 lines
- Try to avoid cross-posting to multiple newsgroups.
- What is a troll?
A troll is someone who posts something
provocative to a newsgroup or other forum, not for the purposes of starting a
productive discussion but of creating a "stir". They usually eventually go
away if they are ignored.
- How do I deal with trolls and off-charter posting?
If you must
respond, please do so privately and not on the newsgroup..
If you wish to
complain, please do so to the "Complaints-To:" address in the header of the
offending post.
You can also report incidents of net abuse to the newsgroup
news.admin.net-abuse.sightings,
using the appropriate posting format.
B. Astronomical Societies
- What national astronomical organisations are there in the UK?
- Where can I find out about local astronomical societies in the UK?
C. Astronomical Publications
- What UK astronomical periodicals are available?
- What other astronomical periodicals are available in the UK?
- What astronomy books are suitable for beginners?
There are very
many books suited to beginners. Those recommended on uk.sci.astronomy and
elsewhere include:
- Exploring the Night Sky with Binoculars by Patrick Moore. A lot
of useful information for people using modest equipment.
- Night Sky - A Collins Gem Guide by Ridpath and Tirion.
Inexpensive pocket-sized star atlas.
- The Observational Amateur Astronomer by Patrick Moore (ed.) Good
introduction to practical observing.
- Observers Handbook of Astronomy from Town & Suburbs by Robin
Scagell. Good general introduction to astronomy.
- Observing Variable Stars by David Levy
- Stars & Planets by Ridpath and Tirion. Informative at a
reasonable price.
- Star Ware by Phil Harrington. A frequently updated guide to
available equipment, including accessories and eyepieces.
- Telescopes and Techniques by Chris Kitchin. A good intro to using
kit and understanding the "workings" of the celestial sphere.
- Turn Left at Orion by Consolmagno and Davies. An introduction to
observing the deep sky.
- Unveiling the Universe by J.E. van Zyl. A good all-round
theoretical astronomy book that deserves to be much, much better
known.
- What astronomy books are suitable for intermediate and advanced
amateurs?
There are very many books suited to intermediate and advanced
amateurs. Those recommended on uk.sci.astronomy and elsewhere include:
- Astrophotography for the Amateur by Michael Covington
- Astrophysical Concepts by Harwit
- Fundamental Astronomy by Karttunen et.al.
- Introductory Astronomy and Astrophysics by Zelik and Gregory
- Small Astronomical Observatories by Patrick Moore (ed)
- Stars and Their Spectra by James Kaler
- The Stars: Their Structure and Evolution by R.J. Tayler
- Telescope Optics: Evaluation and Design by Rutten and van
Venrooij
D. Astronomical Software
- What planetarium programs are available for the PC?
There are
numerous excellent planetarium programs available for PCs. Those recommended
include:
There are
more comprehensive lists of astronomical software at:
- What planetarium programs are available for non-Windows
platforms?
- What planetarium programs are available for hand-held
computers?
PalmOS Of the myriad of astronomically related
software available for the Palm there are four planetarium programs that stand
out:
Star
Pilot and 2Sky have evaluation versions available for download. Planetarium
and PleiadAtlas are offered as nagware. Like most Palm software a small
registration fee is required for continued, full-featured or nagfree use.
WindowsCE:
An evaluation download is available for each except
TheSky.
There is a comprehensive FAQ on astro software available for hand-held
computers at http://homepage.ntlworld.com/p.lawrence1/faq/handheld.htm
- What software is available for observation planning?
Some good
planetarium programs include this facility. Dedicated observation-planning
software includes:
- What software is available for telescope making?
See http://http://www.astunit.com/software/atmprog.htm
for a list of suitable ATM software
- What software is available for astronomical image
processing?
Image processing software is used to manipulate the data
held in a digital image. In astronomy this is typically applied to digital
camera images, ccd-images and (less common) scanned photographs and slides.
There are many different packages available. In addition to general
image-processing software like Adobe PhotoShopฎ and Paint Shop
Proฎ, there is dedicated astronomical image-processing software. Most CCD
cameras come with some image-processing software. Here is a reasonably
extensive list of third-party offerings:
Freeware:
Commercial:
- What software is available for spectroscopy?
- Where can I obtain astronomical shareware?
E. Astronomical Equipment Choosing and Purchasing
- What is the best telescope for a beginner?
The best telescope is
the one that will be used the most! A telescope that is easy to set up, easy
to use, and which has good mechanics and optics will be most likely to meet
this criterion. You should take portability into account if you will need to
transport it to an observing site. Cost is frequently a limitation for
beginners, and there is a cost below which it is advisable to save your money
until a better telescope is available. There is advice on telescopes available
in the UK, broken down into price ranges, at http://www.astunit.com/tutorials/firstscope.htm
Beginners are frequently advised to get binoculars instead of a
telescope. This is sound advice most experienced observers continue to use
binoculars as well as their telescope or telescopes. Binoculars also have a
multitude of applications outside astronomy should the interest in
observational astronomy wane. There is advice on choosing binoculars for
astronomy at http://www.astunit.com/faq/binocular.htm
- How do I choose a first telescope?
Ideally, you should "try
before you buy". The best way to do this is usually to make contact with your
local astronomical society and attend an observing evening. Experienced
members will be pleased to advise you on your prospective purchase and you
will be able to arrange to try out equipment owned by the society or by
members.
If you are unable to attend an astronomical society meeting and want
online advice, this is available at http://www.astunit.com/tutorials/firstscope.htm.
There is advice on evaluating a telescope prior to purchase at http://www.astunit.com/tutorials/evaluating.htm.
There is some excellent advice in thi US-biassed Telescope Buyers
FAQ.
- What are the advantages of reflecting telescopes?
- The optics are free of chromatic aberration
- Usually give the most aperture per ฃ
- What are the advantages of refracting telescopes?
- No obstruction in the light path to degrade the image
- Less affected by temperature changes than any other type
- The fully-enclosed tube reduces air-currents, leading to steadier images
- The optical components rarely require collimation - an especially
important consideration if the telescope is intended to be portable
- Easier to effectively baffle stray internal reflections that would
otherwise degrade the image
- Smaller optical tube for equivalent image quality
- What are the advantages of catadioptric telescopes?
- The fully-enclosed tube reduces air-currents, leading to steadier images
- In the case of Cassegrain configurations (SCT, MCT), the tube-length is
relatively short, rendering it easier to handle, transport and
mount.
- How do I choose binoculars for astronomy?
There is advice on
choosing binoculars for astronomy at http://www.astunit.com/faq/binocular.htm
- Where do I purchase new astronomical equipment in the UK?
There
are a number of reputable retailers in the UK. Most advertise in Astronomy
Now. If you wish to get opinions on a retailer, ask on the newsgroup.
- Where do I purchase used astronomical equipment in the UK?
There
are a number of options.
- UK
Astro-Ads is an excellent and valuable resource. It is provided free by
Chris Heapy who is a regular on uk.sci.astronomy
- Astronomy Now has a "classifieds" page
- Astronomical society members may offer kit for sale at society meetings
- Local newspapers and "Free Ads" often carry adverts for used astro kit
- Astronomical kit is often auctioned on Ebay
- How safe is it to buy used astronomical equipment?
As with any
purchase, especially of used equipment, the best advice is caveat
emptor. That said, the majority of vendors of used kit are honest amateur
astronomers and reports on uk.sci.astronomy of someone being "fleeced" by a
vendor of used kit are exceptionally rare. Steps you can take to protect
yourself include:
- Where possible, inspect and try out the kit before you purchase it
- Ask detailed questions about your intended purchase in order to
ascertain that it is what you want and is in the condition that you
require
- Find out why the vendor is selling it. If he is upgrading, ask what he
felt were the shortcomings of the kit he is selling
- Before parting with any money, agree with the vendor exactly who pays
for what (e.g. P&P, return P&P) should the item not arrive in the
advertised condition
- If the vendor is a "regular" on UK Astro-Ads, it is likely that someone
on uk.sci.astronomy will have bought from him ask for opinions a
reputable vendor will not object to being "checked"
- On Ebay, check the vendors record
- Can I buy directly from abroad?
Yes, but you need to be aware of
the following:
- Some manufacturers operate exclusive dealership regions, so you may not
be able to find a vendor
- Shipping and insurance will be more expensive than local shipping and
insurance
- You will need to pay import duty on the purchase price + shipping +
insurance if the item is purchased outside the EEC. The rate of import duty
depends upon the country of origin and the goods being imported. It varies
beteween 0% and 85%, with the vast majority being between 5% and 9% (astro
kit usually falls at the lower end of this bracket). For more information on
import duty see: http://www.sloanefox.freeserve.co.uk/importukduty.htm.
- You will need to pay VAT on the purchase price + shipping + insurance +
import duty if the item is purchased outside the EEC
- The carrier or his agent may (= "almost certainly will") charge you a
fee for clearing the item through customs and, where appropriate, paying
import duty and VAT on your behalf.
- Local agents may not be obliged to honour warranties on goods purchased
abroad, so these may need to be returned to the country of origin for
warranty repairs
- What do all the numbers mean?
- If only one number is given, this usually, but not always, refers to the
aperture of the instrument. E.g. an ETX 90 has an aperture of 90mm; a
G 9ผ SCT has an aperture of 9.25". Use common sense to ascertain
whether the aperture is given in inches or millimetres.
- If there are two numbers separated by the letter "f", with the second
number being smaller than the first , the first is the aperture, the second
is the focal ratio (i.e. the factor by which the focal length is greater
than the aperture. E.g. a 150 f 8 has an aperture of 150mm and a
focal ratio of 8; i.e. a focal length of 8 ื 150 = 1200mm. This may also be
expressed in other ways, e.g. 150mm f/8 (which, incidentally, is more
"correct").
- If there are two numbers, the first preceded by a "D" and the second by
an "F", the first is the aperture, the second is the focal length. E.g. a
D102/F1000 has an aperture of 102mm and a focal length of 1000mm.
- If there is one number, usually large, preceded or succeeded by a "ื",
this number is the magnification. This is usually found on "department
store" telescopes which are best avoided .
F. Astronomical Equipment Maintenance
- How do I clean telescope optics?
The short answer is: "As
infrequently as possible and very carefully." The optical surfaces of mirrors
and lenses are susceptible to damage if they are cleaned improperly, and they
have to be truly filthy before cleaning becomes necessary. If you must clean
the optics, first of all contact the manufacturer/supplier of the
telescope to ensure that any proposed action will not be deleterious to
the telescope or void the warranty, then:
- Small amounts of dust may be removed with a clean photographic puffer
brush. Work radially away from the centre. Only use the brush to remove
particles that cannot be blown off with the puffer
- Use collodion (sold as Opti-Cleanฎ) to clean eyepiece lenses and
the lenses of small refractors, or corrector plates of small catadioptrics.
- To clean a mirror, carefully take it out of its cell and rinse it in
running water. If that doesn't remove sufficient muck, fill a basin with
water and a little bit of real soap powder/flakes (i.e. not detergent). Put
the mirror in and swill it around. With the mirror surface still under
water, gently (i.e. absolutely no pressure) swab the surface of the mirror
from centre to edge with lint-free cotton swabs, rolling the swab in the
direction of travel, in order to rotate any grime away from the optical
surface. Do a little bit in the centre first and examine the swabbed area
with a magnifier or eyepiece to make sure that you are not causing any
damage. Rinse the mirror under copious amounts of running tap water. Then
rinse the mirror with distilled water, particularly if you live in a hard
water area. Water sold for topping up lead-acid batteries is good for this
purpose. Then leave it on its edge to drain and dry. At all times take care
not to touch the surface, and make sure it is safely supported and protected
whilst drying.
- To clean a refractor objective, remove all dust then make a solution of
6 parts distilled water, 1 part pure isopropyl alcohol, 2 drops mild
washing-up liquid. Dampen a lint-free pure cotton swab in the solution and
gently (i.e. weight of swab alone) swab from centre to edge, rolling the
swab in the direction of travel, in order to rotate any grime away from the
optical surface. Dry the lens by gently blotting it with a dry cotton swab
or a piece of lens tissue.
- What is collimation?
Collimation is the correct aligning of all
the optical elements of a telescope.
- How do I collimate a Newtonian reflector?
The following web
sites have excellent advice:
- How do I collimate a refractor?
See:
- How do I collimate a Schmidt-Cassegrain?
See: http://perso.club-internet.fr/legault/collim.html
- How do I replace damaged optics?
Contact the
manufacturer/supplier of the telescope and solicit help and advice from
there.
- How do I repair/replace mechanical items?
Contact the
manufacturer/supplier of the item and solicit help and advice from there. If
you are unable to get help from there, Barrie Watt of Beacon Hill Telescopes
is sometimes able to make parts to order. Small parts can sometimes be made to
order by SRB The Adaptor Factory (01582-572535).
- How do I repair electrical/electronic components?
Contact the
manufacturer/supplier of the device and solicit help and advice from
there.
G. Astronomical Equipment Mounts
- What is an altazimuth mount?
An altazimuth mount has two axes of
rotation. The altitude axis is horizontal, the azimuth axis is vertical.
- What is a Dobsonian mount?
A dobsonian mount is a simple
altazimuth mount that is usually made of wood, has bearings of Teflonฎ
running on Formicaฎ (or similar substances), and is held together by
gravity. It is usually used for mounting Newtonian reflectors, and offers the
most cost-effective way to own a telescope of reasonable aperture. It is named
after the legendary John Dobson of the San Francisco Sidewalk Astronomers http://www.sidewalkastronomers.com/,
who popularised it.
- What is an equatorial mount?
An equatorial mount has two axes of
rotation. The polar (or right ascension) axis is parallel to the Earth's axis
of rotation. The declination axis is orthogonal (at right angles) to the polar
axis.
- What is a fork mount?
The fork mount is an altazimuth or
equatorial mount in which the telescope tube is held between the "prongs" of a
two-pronged fork. The axis about which the telescope rotates is the altitude
or declination axis. The fork itself rotates about the azimuth or polar axis.
It is mostly used in its altazimuth form for refractors and in its equatorial
form for Cassegrain-type catadioptrics. The Dobsonian mount can be considered
to be a variation of an altazimuth fork. Fork mounts are usually the most
compact way of mounting a telescope, but the base of the fork can limit the
position of the observer's head.
- What is a German equatorial mount?
The German (so-called because
it was designed by the Bavarian astronomer, Josef von Fraunhofer) equatorial
mount carries the telescope tube at one end of the declination axis. Its
weight is balanced by counterweights on a shaft on the other end of the
declination axis. It is a very versatile mount, but the telescope has to be
"flipped" if it crosses the meridian.
- What are setting circles?
Setting circles are graduated scales
on the right ascension and declination axes of the telescope. They are an aid
to locating objects in the sky.
- What are digital setting circles?
Digital setting circles employ
optical encoders on the shafts of a mount. These encoders are read either by a
dedicated computer or, via an interface, by a desktop or laptop computer. They
serve the same purpose as ordinary analogue setting circles, but can be
configured to compensate for poor polar alignment (or for no polar alignment
at all) and usually come with catalogues of objects in the computer so that
these objects may be easily located.
- How do I add drives to my mount?
Contact the supplier or
manufacturer to see if there are dedicated drives available. If not, you may
be able to obtain them from JMI in
the USA.
- What is GOTO?
GOTO is a computerised system for driving a
telescope mount. A target object is selected, usually on a computerised
handpad, and the computer slews the telescope to the object.
- Can I computerise my telescope?
If the telescope mount can be
driven, it can be computerised. The ease with which this can be achieved
depends upon the mount.
- Dedicated computerised drive systems are available for some mounts.
Contact the manufacturer/supplier to ascertain whether this is the case for
yours.
- Third-party drive computers are available for some mounts. See for
example, AWR and the CTC.
- There are DIY options available for those who have the necessary
inclination and ability. The most popular of these is Mel Bartels' system.
- Can I use a planetarium program with my telescope?
It depends
upon the mount and the planetarium program, but the better planetarium
programs will work with the more common mount and drive systems. Contact the
publisher of the planetarium program to ascertain whether it can be used with
your mount and drive system.
H. Astronomical Equipment Eyepieces
- Why are there so many different eyepieces?
There are eyepieces
to suit almost every purpose and budget.
- What do the letters and numbers mean?
The number on an eyepiece
is its focal length in millimetres.
The most common letters and their
meanings are:
Er Erfle. An extremely good relatively wide-angle eyepiece
with a flat field. Also used in good quality wide-angle binoculars. Use at f/6
and greater.
H Huyghenian. Most commonly provided with budget telescopes.
Use at f/10 and greater.
K Kellner. A 3-element eyepiece usually provided
with budget telescopes. It is often used in binoculars. Use at f/7 and
greater.
MA Modified Achromat. A variation on the Kellner.
Or
Orthoscopic. An excellent eyepiece, with a relatively small field of view by
today's standards. Use at f/6 and greater.
Pl Pl๖ssl. A good mid-range
eyepiece. Currently probably the most common eyepiece. Use at f/5 and greater.
- Which eyepiece is best for me?
The eyepiece is an essential part
of the optical system, so get the best that you can afford. In order, acquire
a medium, low and high power eyepiece:
- A low-power eyepiece is one that gives a magnification of approximately
one quarter of the telescope aperture in millimetres. Its focal length in
millimetres will be about 4 times the focal ratio of the telescope.
- A medium-power eyepiece is one that gives a magnification of
approximately equal to the telescope aperture in millimetres. Its focal
length in millimetres will be about equal to the focal ratio of the
telescope.
- A high-power eyepiece is one that gives a magnification of approximately
one and three quarter times the telescope aperture in millimetres. Its focal
length in millimetres will be slightly more than half the focal ratio of the
telescope.
- Are zoom eyepieces any good?
Modern astronomical zoom eyepieces
are of good optical quality and can replace two or more eyepieces from a set.
However, they tend to have narrow fields of view at the low magnification end.
- What is a Barlow lens?
A barlow is a negative lens that
increases the effective focal ratio of the telescope.
I. Astronomical Equipment Accessories
- What are LPR filters?
- Broad-band Light Pollution Reduction filters are intended to block light
emitted by street lights (usually high- and low-pressure sodium and mercury
vapour). They also block starlight in the same frequencies. Therefore they
offer little or no significant improvement on objects that are comprised of
stars (galaxies, clusters, etc.) or those that reflect starlight (reflection
nebulae), but can improve emission nebulae.
- Narrow-band filters are very good on planetary and emission nebulae.
- Line filters (the common ones are O-III and H-beta) are excellent on
most emission nebulae, but reduce the visibility of of objects whose light
is starlight or reflected starlight.
For more information
onapplicability of LPR filters, see Filter Performance
Comparisons for Some Common Nebulae.
- What colour filters are useful?
There is a list of colour
filters and their uses at http://www.astunit.com/tutorials/filters.htm
- What is a "minus violet" filter?
A minus violet filter removes
violet from the light, thus reducing the effects of chromatic aberration in
achromatic refractors.
- What is a star diagonal?
A star diagonal is a prism or mirror
that is placed between the focuser and the eyepiece of a refractor or
Cassegrain-type telescope, and which reflects the light through 90 degrees.
Without a star diagonal, observing near the zenith is extremely uncomfortable
unless the observer is reclining.
- What is a finder?
A finder is a small telescope with low
magnification (typically x8) and wide field (typically 7บ) that is
piggy-backed on the main telescope tube, with which it is aligned. It usually
has a cross-web or other reticle in the eyepiece, thus facilitating the
centring of an object in the field of view, and thereby aligning the main
telescope to that object.
- What is a unit-power finder?
A unit-power finder is a
no-magnification reflex device that projects the image of a red dot or
concentric circles of known angular diameter onto the night sky and which can
be used as a substitute for, or in addition to, a normal finder. It is
valuable as a finder if the main telescope has a wide-ish field of view. The
concentric circles are an aid in star-hopping.
- Why do I need a red light?
Dim red light has the least affect on
night vision and is therefore preferred by astronomers.
J. Astronomical Equipment Telescope Making
- Can I make my own telescope?
Yes. It is very common for amateurs
to make their own telescopes.
- Will it be cheaper than buying one?
This depends to what extent
you improvise and on how creative you are. You should not necessarily expect
that a first self-made telescope (usually 6" or 8" aperture reflector, if you
make your own optics) will be significantly cheaper than a commercially made
one; the benefits of a first telescope are usually the sheer pride and
satisfaction of having made one!.. However, the skills that you will learn can
be applied to more ambitious projects, where there are definite savings to be
made.
- Where can I get more information?
There is a page that points
newcomers to telescope making to the required informational and material
resources at: http://www.astunit.com/tonkinsastro/atm/beginner.htm
K. Astrophotography Conventional Film
- What is Astrophotography?
Astrophotography is the photographing
of astronomical objects. For anything other than photographing bright
solar-system objects, long exposures are required.
- What sort of camera do I need?
The minimum specification for
long-exposure astrophotography is:
- "B" shutter setting
- Manual shutter
- Cable shutter release
Additional desirable specifications
include:
- Single lens reflex camera
- Tripod bush
- Mirror-lock-up
- Interchangeable focus screen
- Where can I get a camera for astrophotography?
New cameras may
be acquired from some suppliers of astronomical equipment.
Some of the favourite cameras for astrophotography are no longer made and
are therefore only available used. Used cameras may be acquired from:
- Used camera shops
- Market stalls
- Car-boot sales
- Classified advertisements
- Internet auction sites
- UK
Astro-Ads
- What common film is suitable for astrophotography?
The
specifications of film emulsions regularly change. A recent (November 2002)
article in Astronomy Now recommended the following:
- Kodak Elite Chrome 200 or E200 (slide)
- Kodak Elite Chrome 100 EC (slide)
- Fuji Provia 100 (slide)
- Fuji Provia 400 (slide)
- Kodak Supra 400 (print)
- Kodak Royal Gold 200 (print)
- Kodak Tech Pan 25 (print). This is a slow, fine-grained, B&W film
that must be hypered.
- How can I prevent star-trailing with a fixed camera?
Trailing
with a fixed camera can be prevented by ending the exposure before the
trailing exceed the resolution of the film. The formula for calculating this
is T = 1000/(F ื cos d), where T is the maximum exposure time in
seconds, F is the focal length of the lens in millimetres and d
is the declination of the centre of the star-field being photographed. For a
50mm lens photographing stars on the celestial equator, this corresponds to a
maximum exposure of 20 seconds.
- How can I take long exposures without getting
star-trailing?
This can be achieved in several ways:
- What is piggy-back photography?
Piggyback photography is the
mounting of a camera onto a telescope or onto a mount that has a telescope
attached. The telescope may be used for guiding, but is not part of the
photographic optical system. The term is also loosely applied to a camera that
is mounted alone on an equatorial mount.
- What is prime-focus photography?
Strictly speaking it is
photography with the film plane directly at the focus of the primary mirror or
objective lens of the telescope. The telescope then replaces the camera lens.
The term is also used for photography with the camera at the focuser of a
Newtonian (strictly Newtonian focus) or Cassegrain (strictly
Cassegrainian focus) type telescope. The camera is directly attached to
the telescope, usually with a suitable adaptor.
- What is afocal photography?
In afocal photography, the camera
(with lens) replaces the eye at the eyepiece of a telescope. The camera is
best supported by a tripod. It potentially gives a high magnification and is
suitable for bright objects such as the Moon.
- What is eyepiece-projection photography?
In eyepiece-projection
photography, the telescope eyepiece projects the image onto the film plane.
The camera is directly attached to the telescope, usually with a suitable
adaptor. It gives a higher magnification than prime-focus photography.
- What other accessories do I need?
For prime-focus and
eyepiece-projection photography you need a camera adaptor that mates the
camera to the telescope tube or focuser, as appropriate. For long exposure
photography, some form of guiding is appropriate.
- What is a guidescope?
A guidescope is a smaller-aperture
telescope attached to the main telescope or camera. It is fitted with an
eyepiece with a reticle. Its focal length should be at least that of the
photographic optical system.
- What is an off-axis guider?
An off-axis guider attaches between
the telescope tube and the camera. A small prism "picks off" a small amount of
the light and directs it to a reticle eyepiece. The eyepiece image is
generally less bright than that in a guidescope, but errors due to flexure
between the main scope and the guidescope and due to mirror-shift in the main
telescope are eliminated.
- What is a cold camera?
A phenomenon called reciprocity
failure that reduces the efficiency of the photographic emulsion is
reduced or eliminated at low temperatures. A cold camera uses dry ice (solid
carbon dioxide) to chill the film. They are technically very complicated to
use.
- What is hypering?
Hypering is an abbreviation for
hypersensitising. It is a process by which the film is bathed in a gas
containing hydrogen (usually "forming gas", a mixture of hydrogen and
nitrogen). This nearly eliminates reciprocity failure.
- What is field rotation?
Picture a constellation or asterism
rising in the northeast, passing near the zenith, then setting in the
northwest. When it sets, it will appear "upside down" as compared to when it
rose it has rotated. This rotation quickly becomes apparent in any
long-exposure astrophoto taken with a camera on a mount that is not properly
polar-aligned. Remedies include proper polar alignment or a computerised
"field derotator" that rotates the camera appropriately.
- Where can I get more information?
The acknowledged "bible" for
amateur astrophotography is Michael Covington's excellent Astrophotography
for the Amateur.
L. Astrophotography Digital Cameras (DigiCams)
- How is a Digicam different from an ordinary camera?
A digital
camera ('DigiCam') uses a CCD chip in place of film as the image sensor. It is
'digital' because all the image information is recorded as digital data and
stored electronically. The more expensive examples have larger CCD chips
offering better resolution. The size of the chip is quoted in Mega-Pixels
(millions of pixels), the largest commonly available is approx. 6MPixel.
- Is a Digicam better than a webcam for astro imaging?
A webcam
uses similar image sensor technology to the digital camera, though with much
lower resolution. The webcam does not possess any built-in recording
capability, nor sophisticated controls of exposure time or colour balance. The
lens is usually very simple, but a big advantage is that it can be removed for
Prime Focus work. Most digicam lenses cannot be removed.
- What features do Digicams offer?
To appeal to the general public
the vast majority of consumer digicams look very like compact 35mm film
cameras. Only a few high-end digicams replicate some of the functions of the
traditional SLR (e.g. interchangeable lenses). Most digicams have a
retractable optical zoom lens of short range with a built-in lens cover. All
digicams offer a 'digital zoom' which simply magnifies the central portion of
the image. Virtually all have a small TTF liquid crystal display which acts as
a finder and also shows the camera settings, and there is usually a small
optical finder too. Image data is stored on a removable memory card of varying
capacity, and there are several different formats in common use. All digicams
are designed to allow the transfer of image data to a personal computer from
where the final image can be printed.
- What are their limitations for Astronomical use?
Digicams were
not designed with astronomical imaging in mind! However, amateur astronomers
can take advantage of certain special features they offer. Exposures are
limited to a maximum of few 10's of seconds, and often less than 5 seconds,
which means that faint objects cannot be recorded. With long (i.e. greater
than a few seconds) exposures the major limitation is digital 'noise' in the
image. Some of this noise (but not all) can be removed during image
processing. CCD cameras specifically designed for Astronomy are electronically
cooled to reduce this noise. Additionally, apart from a very few models,
digicams have non-removable lenses which means they cannot be used at the
Prime Focus of a telescope. Eyepiece-projection (Afocal Projection) is
therefore the only option for recording an image through an astronomical
telescope.
- What features should I look for when purchasing a digital
camera?
Ideally, the camera which generates the lowest noise in the
image during long exposures is the best option. The ease with which the
digicam can be mounted (attached to a telescope) is another feature to look
for. Cameras with retracting zoom lenses are difficult to attach solidly to an
eyepiece and are limited to some sort of bracket suspending it in close
proximity to the eyepiece. A great benefit is the option to remove the camera
lens entirely, this not only enables a firm connection to be made but also
enables it to be used at the telescope's prime focus (thus allowing wide-field
imaging at lower magnification). It also avoids vignetting which can be a
problem with afocal projection. Digicams possessing a threaded lens cell for
accepting filters can more easily be connected securely to a telescope.
- Why is the maximum exposure time important?
The brightest
astronomical targets e.g. the moon, major planets, (and the sun using a
suitable filter) easily fall within the normal exposure range of a digicam.
The equivalent ISO rating (speed) of a digicam may be adjustable up to 800 or
even 1600ASA if the camera offers control over its' electronic gain. For
astronomy, most deep-sky targets are so faint that they cannot be recorded
within the maximum exposure of a digicam. However, new and ever more sensitive
models are being produced, and as the technology advances then so more targets
come within range. Recent top-of-the-range models (e.g. Canon D60) extend the
maximum exposure time to a minute or more whilst still retaining low image
noise, this extends their target list to the brighter deep-sky objects (e.g.
Nebulae such as M42, bright globular clusters).
- Why is cooling important for best image quality?
The amount of
noise in the image is directly related to the temperature of the CCD sensor,
which is why astro CCD cameras are cooled. A digicam can be artificially
cooled (with a fan) which offers a moderate improvement. The electronics in a
digicam generate considerable heat when it's turned on, so a further
improvement will be seen if it is switched off and allowed to cool for a
minute or so between exposures.
- Is the type of lens important for a digicam?
Because the only
option with most models is to use afocal projection through an eyepiece it is
worth investing in a digicam with a good-quality lens. Cheaper Digicams have
poor lenses which limit the achievable resolution.
- Should I use the Digital Zoom on my Digicam?
Digital zoom is a
feature of little use to ordinary photography because all it does is expand
the central portion of the image which is easily be accomplished using a
computer anyway. However, it is of some use for astronomical imaging because
it makes focusing a little easier. Use the fully zoomed-in view to focus the
object, then zoom out again to properly frame the object.
- Is the type of memory chip my Digicam uses important?
The type
of storage medium or memory chip (e.g. compact flash,) is unimportant, but it
is very important that images be saved in 'uncompressed' or 'raw' format. This
takes up more memory, and this is why most cameras have the option to reduce
file size by using JPG compression within the camera's firmware. However, the
effect of using compression is to introduce artefacts which severely limit
subsequent image processing. Because raw images are preferred you need fairly
large memory capacity in the camera.
- How do I get the images into my PC to process them?
The most
common PC interface protocol at time of writing is USB, older cameras used
serial (RS232) communications which is relatively slow. For serial interface
cameras it's usually possible to buy a device which enables the image data to
be read directly from the digicam's memory chip into the computer greatly
speeding up the process.
- Should I buy the digicam offering the highest resolution?
The
latest multi-megapixel digicams with the largest chips compare well (but are
still inferior) to 35mm film in terms of raw pixel density (which equates to
image resolution). The difference however is of little concern for the prime
targets for which the digicam can be used. Even a digicam with a 1 Mpixel chip
which is quite small these days - can produce very detailed images of, for
example, the moon and planets. There are two major types of CCD chip used in
digicams, standard silicon sensors and CMOS sensors. Once thought to be
inferior (lower sensitivity, higher noise), CMOS is the type of chip used in
the new Canon D60. Great advances in the implementation of CMOS technology and
on- camera image processing have resulted in less expensive and higher
resolution chips.
- Will my Digicam produce 'True-Colour' images?
Digicams offer the
great advantage of one-shot colour imaging which works well for photographing
brighter objects (Jupiter, Saturn etc.). It begins to fail with longer
exposures where colour balance changes with increasing length of exposure.
Post-processing can restore the colour balance to some extent though much of
the correction is guesswork. It is better to use tricolour imaging for long
exposures (that is, taking 3 separate monochrome exposures through red, green
and blue filters). For this method to be successful the colour sensitivity of
the chip has to be calibrated, a process which defines the exposure times for
each colour filter (the colour 'ratio'). Whilst most digicams do offer a
'black and white' mode in fact all that happens is that the chrominance data
(colour) is discarded from a colour image. Digicams have tricolour filters
incorporated into the CCD chips themselves, there is no way of taking a true
monochrome image.
- What is the best way of supporting my Digicam for astro
imaging?
There are three ways you can make use of it: You can use a
fixed tripod to record nice images of the constellations, and also events like
Aurora displays and sunsets. At night you can set the exposure to it's maximum
length as star trailing will probably not be a problem unless it's longer than
about 30 seconds. Secondly, it is possible to 'Piggy-back' your digicam on a
tracking platform or driven equatorial telescope mount. However, most digicams
do not offer a sufficiently long exposure to make piggy-back mounting
worthwhile. A few do though those digicams offering a minute exposure or
longer would benefit from being able to track the movement of the stars.
Thirdly, most amateur astronomers want to photograph what they can see through
a telescope, hopefully in greater detail and in colour. While an acceptable
image can sometimes be obtained holding the camera to the eyepiece, best
results are obtained with the camera firmly attached to the telescope. Two
methods are in common use: a special bracket attached to the Digicam's tripod
socket holding the camera close to the eyepiece, or (better) a threaded
adapter connecting the camera's lens directly to the eyepiece. For afocal
projection it's best to use a low-power, wide-field eyepiece (about 35mm), and
then adjust the optical zoom on the camera to avoid vignetting. Set the
camera's focus to infinity and fine adjust using the telescope's focuser.
Although reasonable results can sometimes be obtained using the digicam's
autofocus in my experience this method is not reliable for objects other than
the moon or other high-contrast object.
- What is the best way to power my Digicam for astro imaging?
The
digicam will come with a battery pack as standard but this will probably not
last long enough for an imaging session using a telescope. Quite often a long
time is spent fine tuning the focus, which rapidly drains the battery.
Further, cold conditions significantly reduce battery capacity. A better
option is to use an AC supply or a larger lead-acid battery.
- Can I control my Digicam from my computer?
If the digicam can be
firmly mounted to a telescope then remote control software (available for
newer Nikon, Olympus, Canon and some other cameras) allows virtually all
functions of the camera to be operated remotely using a computer. Older
cameras may be restricted to viewing the image and taking an exposure. If full
remote control is available the great advantage is that operating the often
tiny manual controls is avoided (very frustrating on a cold night!).
- What is the best way of focusing my Digicam for use with a
telescope?
Accurate focusing is the most critical stage of astronomical
imaging and it's importance cannot be over-stressed. It is difficult to judge
correct focus using the small built-in display so either use an external
monitor (a small TV or PC display helps) or another focusing aid such as a
Hartmann or hole-mask. Use maximum digital zoom whilst focusing so that errors
are more easily seen, then back off the zoom to frame the object normally.
- How do I avoid vibrations spoiling the exposure?
Use the
digicam's delayed shutter feature to allow vibrations to stop before the image
is taken. Take several exposures of each object (at least 3, and more if the
'seeing' is less than excellent).
- I took some images, how can I improve the result?
Almost all
images will benefit from some degree of post-processing using a computer
program designed for the job. This involves reducing spontaneous noise by
subtracting 'dark' (or blank) frames, and averaging multiple frames. Most
image processing programs, and all of the astronomy orientated ones, allow
multiple images of the same object to be 'stacked' or averaged. After sorting
out and discarding obviously poor quality examples the remaining images can be
compiled in this way to provide an image possessing lower background noise
with more detail. After that, further enhancement can be achieved by use of
sharpening filters and also correcting the colour balance. The best tool for
the job is a specific astro image processing package (e.g. MaximDL or
AstroArt), but if you have a good working knowledge of Paintshop Pro or Adobe
Photoshop most jobs can be done using these. Astro image processing programs
also offer special procedures called deconvolution to recover blurred detail
from images slightly out of focus or trailed. These programs are also
specifically designed to best deal with low contrast and poor signal-to-noise
ratios typical of astronomical images.
- Should I buy an expensive Digicam now or wait a while?
Digicams
are currently on the threshold of being a viable tool for the budding
astro-imager. It is unlikely however, that for long exposure work it will be
able to replace the functionality of a dedicated astro CCD camera any time
soon. Nevertheless, amazing results have been achieved by amateur astronomers
using both digital cameras and also webcams, extending their range to
capturing stunning images of the brighter deep-sky objects. These results have
been achieved through both improved CCD technology in the cameras, DIY
techniques for cooling the chip and electronics, and development of image
processing techniques to improve the final image. Progress is a continuous
process so digicams definitely have a promising future.
- Where can I find more information on using a Digicam for astro
imaging?
[URLs of Various websites devoted to using digital cameras in
astronomy] Digital camera astro imaging group (Yahoo).
M. Astrophotography CCD Cameras
This section is currently being written. Until it is available, visit: http://www.wodaski.com/wodaski/default.asp
N. Astrophotography Other Electronic Cameras
Until this section is written (offers gratefully received!), you are invited
to visit the QuickCam and
Unconventional Imaging Astronomy Group.
O. Visual Observation
- Where can I find out what is happening in the sky?
- How do I record observations?
Notes and drawings can be made
with soft pencil and paper; mini-tape recorders can be used for verbal notes.
In both cases, they can be written up in neat afterwards. Essential
information includes
- Date and Time
- Location
- Sky and weather conditions
- Instrument(s) used
- Object(s) observed
- Impressions of object
- How can I see fainter objects?
The following have all been known
to work:
- Averted vision. This is looking to one side of the object so that its
light falls on the more sensitive periphery of the retina.
- Improved observational skills
- Patience
- Larger aperture
- Trying different magnifications
- Jiggling the telescope
- Hyperventilating (oxygenating the retina)
- Why can't I see Saturn's rings?
Reasons have included:
- The observed object was not Saturn
- Insufficient magnification (use at least x30)
- Planet so close to the horizon that rings merely appear as extremely
oblate planet.
- You are in the plane of the rings! Wait a few years.
- How do I know if what I am seeing are Jupiter's moons?
- Compare positions with those in a planetarium program or published in an
astronomical magazine or observing handbook.
- The Jovian moons fall into a nearly straight line that is parallel to
the bands on the planet's surface
- The Jovian Moons move relative to each other and to background stars.
Background stars do not move relative to each other.
- How can I estimate the magnitude of an object?
Compare it to a
'standard star' of known magnitude. The magnitude scale is calibrated by
arbitrarily assigning a magnitude to a star the magnitudes of other stars
follow by comparison to this standard star. In practice, there are many
standard stars, so distributed that standards of different spectral types are
likely to be reasonably close to any star being observed. One should choose a
star of similar spectral type when estimating a magnitude of another star
the eye and photometers are differently sensitive to different wavelengths.
(See also Q2)
- What is limiting magnitude?
This can have different meanings
according to the context.
- When referred to a star atlas, it is the approximate magnitude of the
faintest stars included.
- When referred to the sky, it is the dimmest stars that would be visible
at the zenith. It is sometimes referred to as naked eye limiting magnitude
or NELM. It is usually estimated by counting the visible stars in a clearly
defined region of sky, such as the Square of Pegasus, then referring to a
standard table.
- When referred to an instrument, it is the faintest stars visible with
the instrument under ideal conditions. The theoretical limiting magnitude,
Mlim, of a telescope with an aperture, D, can be calculated by
the formula: Mlim = 6.5 - 5 log d + 5 log D (where d is the pupil
diameter of the human eye). However, the predictions of theory do not always
accord with observation and the observed magnitude limits for different
apertures are closer to these values for amateur instruments:
| Aperture (mm) |
50 |
100 |
150 |
200 |
250 |
300 |
500 |
| Mlim |
12 |
13.5 |
14.5 |
15 |
15.5 |
16 |
17 |
These are data for experienced observers in
ideal conditions. Haze, inexperience, and poor equipment can all reduce the
value of the limiting magnitude.
P. Light Pollution
- What is light pollution?
Light pollution is artificial light
that shines where it is not required or where it is detrimental in any way to
the environment. For astronomers the main problems are skyglow (brightening of
the sky by light reflecting off water droplets and particulate matter) and
light trespass.
- What is light trespass?
Light trespass is artificial light that
shines on your property from sources that you do not control outside your
property. This may be from streetlights, a neighbour's poorly directed
security light, light from a local recreational facility, or any other source.
- How can I get light pollution and light trespass reduced?
You
can get up-to-date information about what you can do from The Campaign for Dark Skies
- How can I observe in light-polluted areas?
Aids to observing in
light-polluted areas include:
- LPR filters
- Use a CCD camera the unwanted light can be removed by software)
- Use larger apertures (effective on point objects)
Q. Miscellaneous
- Why is the image inverted/reversed?
This is a function of the
optics. The orientation of the image will depend upon the number of
reflections in the system. It is irrelevant to astronomy a star has no
"right way up".
- What is magnitude?
The magnitude is the brightness of an
astronomical object. As observers, we are primarily in the apparent
magnitude, which is the magnitude we perceive. There is also absolute
magnitude, which is the magnitude that a star would appear at a distance
of 10 parsecs (except for asteroids it is at 1 AU with zero phase angle).
The magnitude scale that we use was derived from Hipparchus, who
informally classified stars into different magnitudes. The first to appear at
dusk were "1st magnitude" and the last to appear were "6th magnitude". The
scale was formalised by Pogson, who formalised it into a logarithmic scale in
which a 1st magnitude object is 100 times as bright as a 6th magnitude object.
The magnitudes assigned to standard stars are such that they are
consistent with each other, and the calibration is based on a star of
magnitude 1.0 having an energy of 9.87 ื 10-9 W m-2 at
the top of Earth's atmosphere.
There are other types of magnitude relating to specific parts of the
electromagnetic spectrum.
Here are some visual magnitudes of some common
objects:
-26.8: The Sun
-12.6: The full Moon
-4.7: Venus (at its
brightest)
-2.9: Jupiter (at its brightest)
-2.8: Mars (at its
brightest)
-1.42: Sirius (brightest naked eye star)
0: The approximate
magnitude of Alpha Centauri, Arcturus, Vega, Rigel
+0.7: Saturn (at
opposition)
+1: The approximate magnitude of Antares, Spica, Pollux
+2: The approximate magnitude of Polaris and the stars in Orion's Belt and
the Big Dipper
+4: Approximately the faintest stars visible in
brightly-lit urban skies
+5.5: Uranus
+6.5: Approximately the faintest
stars visible in dark, transparent skies
+8: Neptune
+14: Pluto
[Source: Tonkin, AstroFAQs]
- What is gravity?
In general terms, gravity is a force of mutual
attraction amongst all objects that contain mass. Its importance in astronomy
includes the understanding of :
- Tides
- Satellite orbits
- Planetary systems
- Binary and multiple star systems
- Black holes
- The history of the universe
See John Stockton's Gravity Page for more
information.
- What is relativity?
This is best answered by Ned Wright's Relativity
Tutorial.
- Why do astronomers believe that the Universe is
expanding?
Distant galaxies have redshifted spectra, indicating that
they are receding. The greater the distance the greater the redshift and
apparent rate of recession. This is consistent with an expanding universe.
- What is the Big Bang Theory?
If the Universe is expanding,
common sense suggests that it was smaller in the past. Taken to its extreme,
this suggests that the universe was once a point; prior to that it did not
exist. The theory in which the universe was suddenly created from a
"singularity" is the Big Bang Theory, which is currently the dominant theory
of cosmology. The name was coined in derision by the late Sir Fred Hoyle, who
supported a different theory of the universe.
- What happened before the Big Bang?
If the theory is correct,
time came into existence with the Big Bang, so the conditions that gave rise
to the Big Bang are probably unknowable
- Will Earth be hit by a "doomsday asteroid"?
Yes. It is not a
matter of "if", but of "when". It may be millions of years in the future, but
we currently have no way of knowing as we only know the orbits of a small
fraction of the NEOs (Near Earth Objects).
- Can I do anything about "doomsday asteroids"?
Jay Tate, Director
of Spaceguard UK, writes:
There are a number of very efficient NEO detection programmes in the USA
that are out performing amateur searchers by a significant margin, though
with larger telescopes (12" to 16" bracket) and high end CCDs discovery is
still possible. The most valuable contribution that the amateur can make is
performing follow-up observations of NEOs discovered by the professional
programmes. There is an excellent guide to Minor Planet Astrometry available
at http://cfa-www.harvard.edu/iau/info/Astrometry.html.
Another
valuable contribution that amateurs can give is to pursue those who control
the purse strings, in other words, write to your locally elected officials.
The government began to take the NEO hazard seriously in 2000, but, since
then, there has been an almost total lack of activity.
More
details are available at: http://www.spaceguarduk.com/.
- Why does the Moon appear larger on the horizon?
This is the
"Moon Illusion". It is an optical illusion, related to the Ponzo illusion,
resulting from a combination of the phenomenon of size constancy and
our perception that the celestial sphere is flattened (i.e. that the zenith is
nearer than the horizon). See the Moon Stereogram
Demonstration.
- How can I combat dew formation on my telescope?
Dew forms when
the temperature of a surface falls below "dew point". Telescopes cool by
radiative cooling, so dew can be counteracted by reducing radiative cooling of
optical surfaces and by reducing the amount of warm moist air (e.g. breath)
that comes into contact with them.
- Dew caps provide the simplest way of shielding object glasses and
corrector plates from the sky, but very few telescopes are provided with
sufficiently long ones.
- The existing dew-shield or the air in the vicinity of the optic can be
actively warmed by a proprietary product such as the Kendrick Dew
Zapperฎ, or by DIY options such as resistance wire or strings of
resistors.
- There are two obvious ways of warming eyepieces: a clean inside pocket
or some form of electrical heating. Folding down eye-cups can reduce the
rate at which dew accumulates.
- If dew forms, it can be removed by warm dry air from, e.g. a
"traveller's" hairdryer.
- How can I keep warm when observing on cold nights?
- Wear layers of warm clothing, with a wind-proof outer layer. Clothing
worn next to the skin should "wick" water (sweat) away from the skin.
- Body-temperature can be regulated with a warm hat, which is easier to
adjust than it is to remove or add layers of clothing.
- Felt-lined snow-boots keep feet toasty-warm.
- Hunter's or fisherman's gloves with "split thumbs" and/or fold-back
finger tips keep the hands warm whilst permitting delicate adjustments to be
made.
- Mild exercise prior to observing can increase metabolism (and thus raise
body temperature) for several hours.
- Drink hot, sweet, non-diuretic drinks, especially just prior to an
observing session. In addition to the warmth from the drink, the body's
extremities cool more rapidly if it becomes even slightly
dehydrated.
- Where can I get current weather information?
- How are eclipses caused?
An object is eclipsed when it passes
into the shadow of another. Therefore an eclipse of the Moon occurs when the
Moon passes into Earth's shadow, i.e. when the Moon and Sun are on
diametrically opposite sides of Earth. An eclipse of the Sun is, strictly
speaking, an occultation of the Sun, i.e. the Sun's disc is occulted
(hidden) by the Moon for an observer on Earth.
- What are the causes and effects of tides?
Sea-tides are caused
largely by the gradient, at the Earth, of the Moon's gravitational field; the
Sun is the only other body which makes a significant contribution. Tides tend
to cause the orbits of planets and moons to circularise and synchronise. For
more information see:
- How is time related to astronomy?
See: http://www.astunit.com/tutorials/time.htm
- How is the calendar related to astronomy?
See: http://www.tondering.dk/claus/calendar.html
- What units are used in astronomy?
Astronomy is an international
undertaking and therefore uses Systeme International (SI) units. In addition,
the following units are also used:
- The ลngstrom unit (1 ล = 0.1 nm) is still often used in
spectroscopy.
- The Astronomical Unit (1 AU = 149 597 870 660 m), the mean
separation of the Earth and Sun, is used to measure distances within the
solar system or other star/planet systems.
- The light year (1 l.y. = 9.4607 ื 1012 m), the distance travelled in vacuo
by light in one tropical year, is used to measure distances outside the
solar system.
- The parsec (1pc = 3.0857 ื 1013 m) (3.2616 l.y.), the distance at
which a star has an annual parallax of one arcsecond, is used to measure
distances outside the solar system. It is the distance at which 1 AU
subtends an angle of 1 arcsecond.
- What co-ordinate systems are used in astronomy?
The most
commonly used are horizontal co-ordinates (altitude and azimuth
referenced to the plane of the horizon and due north) and equatorial
co-ordinates (right ascension and declination referenced to the plane of
the equator and the vernal equinox). For more information on these and the
conversion between them, see: http://www.astunit.com/tutorials/positional.htm.
Also encountered are ecliptic co-ordinates (ecliptic latitude and
ecliptic longitude referenced to the plane of the ecliptic and the vernal
equinox) and galactic co-ordinates (galactic latitude and galactic
longitude referenced to the galactic plane and the galactic centre).
- Where can I find satellite predictions?
The most popular seems
to be: Heavens Above; have
your latitude and longitude to hand. Other useful sites include:
- Where can I get information about solar system objects?
R. Useful Internet Resources
These are useful links that don't quite fit anyhere else. They are in
alphabetical order.
Y. Contributors
- Who maintains this FAQ?
This FAQ is maintained, on behalf of the
subscribers to uk.sci.astronomy, by
, to whom corrections updates, and suggestions should be addressed .
- Who contributed to this FAQ?
Chris Heapy (K)
Pete Lawrence
(D3, D6)
John Stockton (Q15, Q20, Q21, numerous links, proof-reading and
HTML checking)
Jonathan Tate (Q9)
Steve Taylor (M)
Stephen Tonkin
- Where did this FAQ originate?
The original FAQ for
uk.sci.astronomy was initiated and written by Dave G Smith. We, the current
authors of the FAQ, acknowledge, with thanks, Dave's initiative.
Z. Requests for Other Sections
There have been requests for sections or subsections, or expansions on the
following topics
- Gravity
- Energy
- Universe
- Solar System
- Other newsgroups and discussion media
- Other FAQs
- Radio-astronomy
- Astronomy-from-space
- Famous UK Astronomers
- UK Astronomical Web Sites
If you are able to assist by writing one or more of these, please contact the
maintainer of this FAQ with your offer.
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